- Installing an acrylic bathtub
- Adjoining the bath to the wall
- Types of bath curbs
- Static curbs
- Compensating curbs
- DIY installation of an integrated border on an acrylic bathtub
From the article you will learn about different types of bath borders, we will tell you about the advantages and disadvantages of borders, we will voice their characteristics, and give advice on choosing. The article also contains a master class with step-by-step photos on installing a plastic bath corner..
The article provides several “from life” tips for installing the bath itself, which are directly related to the choice of the curb, which are not in the basic instructions. These tips will help you when installing the bath to avoid problems in the most difficult place – the abutment of the side to the wall.
Installing an acrylic bathtub
Place a shock absorbing layer between the acrylic and the frame profile – even rubber from a bicycle tube will do. But it is best to use a silicone sealant. Such a gasket will prevent backlash in the bath bottom and relieve you of the constant unpleasant knocking that appears after 1–2 years of operation..
Fix the tub legs to the floor with wall plugs before finishing. The floors in the bathroom are smooth and sometimes wet – a person can slip and hit the bathtub badly, or even fall on it. She must take such a blow.
If children are supposed to play in a bathtub filled with water, install additional legs in the standard profile. This will give stability and safety, since usually household acrylic bathtubs are not designed for such dynamics..
Acrylic coating, unlike steel or cast-iron bath enamel, is more sensitive to strong solvents. This property is used in special adhesives for acrylic – they dissolve the surface layer and thereby firmly weld the glued element to the bath rim. Such connections are more reliable and airtight compared to an enamel sticker..
For a more secure attachment, it is permissible to lay polyurethane foam between the wall and the bathroom..
Adjoining the bath to the wall
Each master finishes this section in his own way, provided that the abutment wall is covered with tiles. The choice of the main element of the junction – the curb – always depends on the material of the bath itself. When choosing a curb, the following indicators play a decisive role:
- Bath static. Modern mass products are made taking into account the economy of material, therefore, they have some mobility when filling a bath or when a person is there. In this case, the wall is absolutely motionless. The curb must compensate for backlash.
- Life time. There are temporary options that are easily and painlessly replaced, and permanent options, to replace which you will have to dismantle part of the finish.
- Curb installation stage. With a complete renovation, all options are available, with a partial repair or replacement of only the bathroom – just a few.
However, even with a major overhaul, the binding to the bath material remains decisive, but the installation method and the design of the curb can be selected in advance.
Types of bath curbs
All curbs can be conditionally divided into two types – compensating (backlash-absorbing) and static.
These are glazed ceramic products with the same properties as tiles. They are laid on tile glue or special sealant. Service life is conditionally unlimited (in reality – about 30-40 years before loss of appearance).
- Chic appearance.
- Operational stability, durability.
- All the disadvantages of tiles are sharpness, heavy weight.
- High price (from $ 5 per rm).
- Not applicable on products with backlash – cracks quickly form at the joint.
Recommendations. This type of curb is well suited for bathtubs created on site from brick or concrete (complete static and bond with the walls). Suitable for use on heavy cast iron baths installed on a solid base.
Made of plastic, polyethylene or other polymer. The main (decisive) property is the ability to keep the tightness of the joint due to the elastic edge of the abutment. This is true for thin-walled steel and acrylic baths. They are divided into three subspecies depending on the installation method..
Ribbon. Flexible polyethylene tape with an adhesive layer. Allows you to bypass any curvature. The service life with regular operation is 1–2 years. The price is about 1 USD. e. / running. m.
Overhead. They can have a regular flat or curly profile. Material – plastic, fastening method – on sealant. Well suited for replacing the bathtub without renovating the room, easy to replace. Disadvantage – over time, defects appear, moisture gets into the smallest cracks and first darkening appears, and then a fungus. Service life before loss of appearance is 2–4 years. The price can vary from 1.5 to 3 USD. e. / running. m.
Integrated. This type of plastic profile is mounted together with the tile, its perforated plane is inserted into the adhesive layer between the tile and the wall. This eliminates the possibility of moisture getting into the cracks, since they simply do not exist. The elastic edge absorbs play and keeps the joint sealed. Suitable for all types of baths and abutments. The price is about 2–3 USD. e. / running. m.
DIY installation of an integrated border on an acrylic bathtub
The bath must be installed and finally unfastened. At the same time, the tile is usually laid out by 95%, it is the abutments that remain, which first of all need to be sealed with a sanitary compound.
The curb is installed in front of the last row of tiles and, accordingly, is wound under it. This border is mounted on two types of glue at once. First glued with acrylic, silicone or polyurethane sealant. The surface must be degreased.
When laying tiles on a wall, tile adhesive will fix it. Curb view after initial installation:
This is followed by laying the tiles, and it should start with the most difficult – the element with a cut. It needs to be done immediately and accurately, so use a special tile drill with a crown.
Prime the place of the first tile with glue (usually there are defects from walled pipes).
The first tile is laid.
Then all subsequent tiles are laid in the usual way – through the limiters-crosses.
Do the trimming carefully, because there will be no way to hide flaws – the cut edge is literally at eye level. After grouting, carefully matched to the tone of the tile and bath, the adjoining completely merges with the background of the wall and acrylic.
Careful attention to this particular area of work is the key to long-term trouble-free operation of the bathroom without losing its appearance. It is an incorrectly executed junction that can ruin everything – the price of a bath and a tile will no longer play a role if a gap or crack appears at the junction. Therefore, select the appropriate border and follow the instructions on the packaging.