Recommendation points
Plastic windows have long been introduced into our everyday life. And we cannot imagine an apartment without them. All this, of course, is wonderful. Only the slopes inside the apartment are still being made by window fitters from plastic panels. And there is this flimsy structure, to which it is scary to touch, everything vibrates, thumps loudly, deforms over time. Take away this relic of antiquity!
Practical people have long since switched to slopes made of moisture-resistant plasterboard or gypsum fiber. Costs are minimal and installation is a snap. So where to start?
Purchase of material
Purchase drywall sheets. The size of the sheet can be 2.5×1.2 m. Or 3×1.2 m. It will be easy for you to calculate the number of sheets. Take a tape measure and measure the slopes. Difficulties with calculations should not arise. After all, everyone studied at school.
Be sure to buy a deep penetration primer. You will also need construction assembly adhesive. It is a dry mix in bags. Diluted with water. After drying, it becomes like a stone. You will need: a clerical knife with blades, a pencil, a U-shaped plastic profile, a steel spatula, perforated corners, a level.
Buy a filler to seal drywall seams and holes. The finishing putty will be needed for finishing. You need to clean the putty with M-40 sandpaper, which can be bought at any hardware store. Buy a polystyrene roller, paint brush, acrylic varnish there. Why do you need varnish? You will know it at the end.
In order to avoid visible cracks at the corners of drywall sheets (you never know what), buy acrylic white sealant. That’s all you need. Start installation.
Mounting
Plastic windows are always covered with polyurethane foam around the frame. You need to cut off the excess foam with a clerical knife. Installers always level windows. Almost always. Take a U-shaped plastic profile and screw it with screws to the edge of the frame around the entire perimeter, except for the window sill, of course.
Drywall will be inserted into this profile. Take measurements of the left, right sides of the slopes and the top. Cut out the necessary blanks on a drywall sheet. Prime the slopes and blanks themselves (green side of the sheet). Knead the glue with a mixer, but as much as about two slopes is about half a bucket.
On the green side of the upper blank, apply the prepared glue evenly with slaps. Carefully, so as not to break the sheet, lift the workpiece up. Insert it into the U-shaped profile. Press down along the entire length. You can make the corner open – it will be more beautiful this way. But many people make a 90 degree angle. Take a level, apply it to the edge of the workpiece. Tap with your fist where you need to. Or pull back the edge of the sheet. The main thing is to have a level.
The glue sets quickly, so you need to hurry. You can move away from the window and visually compare the edge of the sheet with the edge of the window glass. The windows are level. The edge line of the sheet should be parallel to the line of the glass or frame.
Do the same with the side parts of the slopes. The angle of unfolding the side slopes is easy to make the same. Take a square, attach the small side to the frame, and the large side to the slope sheet. Use a tape measure to measure the distance between the sheet and the square at the end of the square. Then attach the square to only the other side slope.
Measure the distance. It should be the same. If the distance is less, tap the sheet. Then the angles of the slopes will be correct. The protruding parts of the sheets can then be cut off with a hacksaw or a knife along the wall. Seal the gap between the top sheet and the side sheet with a hard putty to seal the seams.
Installation of perforated corners
Measure the distance between the top sheet and the sill, between the edges of the side sheets. You need to cut the corners to size. Mix with hard putty and apply to the edge of the sheet. Attach the corner tightly and press it against the sheet. Take a level and attach it to the corner.
Adjust the level of the corner by pushing it where you want it (or pulling it out). There should be no gaps between the level and the corner. Step aside and compare – is there a parallel between the corner of the slope and the edge of the window. When the corner dries, then putty the left and right sides of the corner with a wide spatula. Do it as wide as possible..
When the thick layer of putty dries, then putty the slopes with the finishing putty twice, letting the layers dry. After that, you need to clean the putty with M-40 sandpaper so that there are no scratches, pits, bumps. Do not prime the surface. Acrylic sealant pass the corners of drywall sheets.
It is necessary to paint the slopes at least twice, rolling the roller well. As soon as the paint dries, acrylic varnish comes into play. Apply two coats of varnish with a roller. The slopes will shine. And now they will not be afraid of moisture.
Now you can independently make slopes for your window, which will serve you for a long time. All you need is desire and a little skill.
Are there any alternatives to plastic slopes that effectively address the issue of slope stability while being more sustainable?