How to replace slate with metal tiles

Today, metal tiles of various colors and shapes are very popular. Therefore, quite often, the owner of the house changes the old, but still quite strong slate for a beautifully looking fashionable metal tile. There are several explanations for this, one of which, in addition to beauty, is also explained by the speed of work. Especially if you don’t need to build a new rafter system. This is what will be discussed.

In order to do this work, you need to prepare tools: a hammer, a pry bar with a nail puller, a hacksaw for wood, a plane, a stapler. From power tools you will need: a battery-powered screwdriver or an electric drill with a set of drills and bits for screwing in screws, a grinder (grinder) for possible trimming of the coating, a jigsaw, and, just in case, an electric saw for wood.

You ask: why do we need saws and planers? I answer. The fact is that only one row of bars is usually placed under the slate in the form of a lattice in relation to the rafters – this is called a crate. And under the metal tile, two battens are attached – due to the fact that the metal tile can be scratched somewhere, etc., the second crate under it is made for ventilation – so that water does not collect from the bottom. Thus, we will attach another one to the existing crate with rafters – for ventilation – and we will have to work with wood. Among other things, you need 75 mm self-tapping screws for wood and a hydro-barrier bay.

Having removed the old covering (slate), carefully examine the entire rafter system. If somewhere there is a tree eaten by a bark beetle, clean it off, or even replace it altogether. After that, take the hydro-barrier, spread it over the entire area of ​​the frame and attach it with a stapler to the frame. On the rafters, nail a wooden beam 25 X 120 mm along the entire length, perpendicular to the ridge, finally attaching the hydro-barrier. The bar is attached with a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. Further, a new lathing of a wooden bar of the same size is attached to this beam in the same way. You need to start with the extreme bars (ridge and bottom), pull the cord and check the accuracy of the sheathing and diagonal dimensions.

If you set the diagonals incorrectly, then later you will have considerable difficulties in fastening the metal tile itself, therefore the dimensions and diagonals should be almost ideal. Having set the diagonals, you can proceed to fastening the rest of the second crate. The bar is set parallel to the ridge at a distance of 230 mm from the inner edges of the bar – such accuracy is needed then to get a self-tapping screw when fastening directly under the step of the metal tile. The entire lathing should be completely in one plane. If it protrudes somewhere – cut it off with a plane, if on the contrary it sinks – put a piece of a wooden plate of the appropriate size. Cut the side edges of the crate to your predetermined size.

After attaching the second lathing, it is imperative to pass an antiseptic mixture along the entire wooden frame – in order to avoid the appearance of bark beetle and rot.

The frame is ready and now you can proceed directly to the fasteners of the metal tile itself. Its edges are exposed along the lace. The bottom is set 70-100 mm below the rafter. The sides protrude from the rafters by 100-150 mm. The shingles are fastened with special self-tapping screws to match the color of the coating. Since the metal tile has a system of locks, you can start fixing it only from right to left. If you do the opposite, then this is the same as starting to fasten the slate from above. If you measured and set everything correctly, then the sheets are laid evenly, simply and quickly. If a sheet of metal is protruding somewhere, cut off the excess with a grinder.

One nuance. When buying a metal tile, be sure to check it for dimensions and diagonals – they must be accurate – the length coincides with the length, the width with the width, the diagonal with the diagonal. If you do not do this, then you risk taking substandard or marriage, which will cause problems when stacking sheets. Even a properly exposed crate will not help you. Further. Metal sheets are made in the form of steps. Be sure to check the dimensions between the steps – they must be the same too.

When laying defective sheets, they will begin to protrude more beyond the marked border, which will completely disfigure the overall pattern of the coating, or create problems when covering the connection of the slopes on the ridge. Self-tapping screws. They should match the color of the metal tile, with a washer and a rubber gasket under the washer.

After the cover is laid, attach a special corner on the ridge that covers the place where the slopes join. If you want to cover the side edge of the coating, then there is a special side corner for this. Both the ridge and the sides are also fastened with self-tapping screws for metal tiles..

Walk carefully on the coating – otherwise push through the steps of the metal tile. After all the work, go over the coating and carefully coat all the scratches with paint of the appropriate color.